EUROPEAN ECO-LABEL USER’S MANUAL APPLICABLE TO TEXTILES PRODUCTS

GENERAL INFORMATION PROPOSED
The European Ecolabel, founded in 1992, is the official European Ecological Label. It is managed by name of competent body. To obtain the European Ecolabel, the product must be in conformity to ecological and fitness for use criteria. The criteria result from negociations between European representatives of industrialists, consumer and environmenatl organisations, retailors and public authorities under the responsability of the Commission, DGXI, Environmental General Direction. For the moment , the European Ecolabel concerns bed linen and tee shirts, washing machines, kitchen and toilet papers, light bulbs, textile detergents, soil improvers, copying paper, refrigerator/ deep freezes, personal computers, bed mattresses, diswashing machines, footwear, paints and varnishes and textiles products. The products concerned by this European Ecolabel are :

Textiles clothing -Interior textiles - Yarn and fabric for use in textile clothing or interior textiles 
Criteria for the European Ecolabel applied to other textiles have been made in taking into account at each step of the product life, type of used fibre, emissions in air, in water, in ground during production of fibre… These criteria are in particular at promoting the reduction of water pollution related to the key processes throughout the textile manufacturing chain, including the fibre production, spinning, weaving, knitting, bleaching, dyeing and finishing. Moreover, appropriated tests ensure that the different type of products are conform to fitness for use. This document and its annexes define the particular conditions of the rules’s application of the European Ecolabel for other textiles. The scope of this technical rule is defined in annex 1 with all the criteria. The list of laboratories used for tests can be found in annex 6. Before sending a file to the competent body, the applicant must be sure that he is conformed to the defined conditions in the present document and in particular for the annex 4, concerning its product and its production unit. He must undertake himself to respect the same conditions during all the period of use the European Ecolabel. The applicant’s file must be presented in conformity to the models given in annex 3. As receipt of the demand, we can find in general :
- exam of the file
- visit of the production unit
- tests

The decision following a demand of right for use the European Ecolabel is the same for each competent body.
If the results of tests and of the site‘s audit are conformed to the decision published in JOCE, the competent body sends a notification to the Commission of Brussels, DGXI, in order to inform the different competent bodies of the new applicant and the new product. If there is no opposition from them or from the Commission at the end of 30 days, the competent body awards the European Ecolabel to the producer. The producer must sign a contract at this moment between his company and the competent body.

The marking and reference to the European Ecolabel should be the same for each competent body
All certified products in conformity with the decision, with the rule and its annexes must have the logo ' on its packaging, following the conditions defined in annex 2. The holder must communicate to the competent body every advertising about the European Ecolabel on its demand. For producer of yarn or fabric, the mention of the logo ' may appear only on the information brought to its customer. The reason is that the consumer is not directly concerned by the european ecolabel on fiber or fabric.

Monitoring by the competent body may be different in each competent body with a target which is to have always products conformed to the criteria
A control of certified products is realized by the competent body as soon as the agreement of the right to use has been delivered. This monitoring may include the production site’s visit and the realization of test on products. In the case of the producer of final textile product use a producer of yarn or fabric which has already the European Ecolabel, only the part concerning the final product will be checked. Following these different cases the annex 4 defines the ways and the frequency of this monitoring in function of :
-Level of quality organisation of the holder of right to use the European Ecolabel
-Decisions taken on the certified product.
-The use of suppliers certified
Moreover, the competent body can realize others visits if there are reclamations from consumers or from customers of fibre’s producer.

WHAT MUST THE PRODUCER DO FOR HIS FIRST DEMAND ?
After the step " certification request " indicated in the document given with this document (four steps for obtaining the European Ecolabel) for the implementation, the applicant must send some different elements for its file. These elements must be sent to the Competent Body :
Models to empty :
- Model 1 (annex 3 page 25/57), the application request form which means that the society undertakes to inform the Competent Body any modification on products and accepts the conditions of European Ecolabel.
- Model 4 (annex 3 page 30/57), only when distributors sold products with their own distributor mark .
- Model 5 (annex 3 page 31/57), form containing general information on company which is necessary for the Competent Body for a good work.
- Model 6 (annex 3 page 32/57), product form which is necessary to know the number of types and families and the name of difference commercial references for the administrative recording and for future checks.
- Model 7 (annex 3 page 33/57), applicant’s undertaking on honor. For a certification it is important to know that the person in charge of the awarded products know the requirements and undertake to respect them.
- Model 8 (annex 3 page 35/57), applicant’s undertaking on honour, only when the applicant use more than 50% organic cotton.
Documentation to send to the Competent Body for the criteria
- When it is a demand only for yarn or fabric the applicant shall send tests reports made by a laboratory of the list in annex 5 and undertakings on honour only for criteria concerning these steps of production of final product.
- If the applicant of a final product like interior textiles or indoor textiles ask for an european ecolabel he shall send all the tests reports concerning the final product and the different fibers, yarn or fabric used for the product or if he uses a supplier of yarn or fabric which has already the european ecolabel, he shall send only tests reports concerning the final product like tests for fitness for use.
For the requirements in relation to consumer information, the applicant will send the design of packaging to the competent body.
- All these different elements must be sent in the same time, if possible. After receiving information or in the same time, the competent body calls the applicant to define an appointment for the auditor, in case of there is an audit on the industrial site.

WHAT MUST THE PRODUCER DO IN CASE OF A RENEWED CONTRACT
These criteria have be adopted on the 17 st of February 1999 by the Commission and published on 5^th of March 1999 in the JOCE. These criteria will concern all types of fibres including in particular cotton and polyester. So the applicants of bed linen and tee shirt which have already the European Ecolabel will have to do a new demand in conformity with this Decision. In order to facilitate the work of applicants, the Commission has accepted to simplify procedures for the renewing of contract. So if a applicant wishes to renew its contract with the competent body, he shall send the following elements to complete its existing file :
Models to empty :
- Model 2b (annex 3 page 28/57), the applicant request for an extension related to the new criteria
- Model 7 (annex 3 page 33/57), applicant’s undertaking on honour
Documentation to send to the Competent Body for the criteria
- The applicant have to send complementary test reports relating either to the new criteria either to the old criteria updating.

ANNEX 1
SUMMARY TABLE OF CRITERIA
SUMMARY FOR THE EUROPEAN ECOLABEL ON TEXTILE PRODUCTS"
For the different type of fibers
These criteria will be related to the the following functional unit : 1 kg of textile product at normal conditions (65% RH + 2% and 20°C + 2°C- these norm conditions are specified in ISO 139 Textiles – standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing).

A2 PROCESSES AND CHEMICALS
The criteria in this section apply, where appropriate, to all stages of production of the product, including the production of the fibres.It is nevertheless accepted that recycled fibres may contain some of the dyes or other substances excluded by these criteria, but only if they were applied in the previous life cycle of the fibres.

1. VOCs : any organic compound having at 293,15K a vapour pressure of 0,01 kPa or more, or having a corresponding volatility under the particular conditions of use.

ANNEX 2
MARKING - REFERENCES TO THE EUROPEAN ECOLABEL

1. PRODUCT MARKING - CONSUMER INFORMATION
1.1 COMPULSORY MARKINGS
Product labelling must comply with all regulations in effect. A product with the European Ecolabel must be marked systematically with the logo on the primary packaging or on any other document accompanied the packaging. In this case, it must be visible to the consumer and respect the graphic chart.
1.2 CONSUMER INFORMATION
The following information may be presented like below on the product packaging :
This product qualifies for the European Ecolabel, because it combines quality and ecology :
- garantee of fastness to light, colour, perspiration…,
- garantee of product dimensional changes,
- limited impacts on the environment during the life cycle of the product, from the fibre production, fabric to the final product.
All these requirements will be checked at regular intervals in conformity with the assessment procedures . In all cases, the packaging models shall be accepted by AFNOR before notification of the award of the european ecolabel.
3. CONDITIONS OF MARKING’S WITHDRAWAL
A suspension or a withdrawal of the rigth to use the european ecolabel annuls the right for the product concerned. In the same way at the end of validity of criteria (5th march 2002), products will not make reference to the european ecolabel. Applicant will have 6 months to become again conformed to the new decision. At this time a new contract will be signed beetween the competent body and the applicant after checking conformity to the new criteria. An agreement between the producer and the competent body will take into account the necessary time to sold all products with the old packaging.

ANNEX 3
CONSTITUTION OF AN APPLICATION FILE - MAINS OF THE APPLICATION FILE
This application file for textile products describes how necessary data must be established to ask for awarding the european ecolabel. The file describes also the checking assessment to the criteria conformity, when the label has been awarded. This assessment procedures concern fibres, fabrics producers and final products producers of textile clothing and interior textiles. Criteria concern various fibres as cotton, polyester, elastane, flax and other bast fibres, greasy wool and other keratin fibres, man made cellulose fibres as viscose fibres, polyamide, polyester and polypropylene. They concern all production steps, from the fibre to the final product. So, due to the environmental impacts made by culture of some fibres and by production of other fibres, it is proposed from criteria 1 to 9 requirements on pesticides, emissions of some polluants, treatment of the fibre and on the washing effluents. Criteria 10 to 28 aim to reduce environmental impacts due to processes and substances used during the cycle manufacturing. Criteria 29 to 34 concern the product quality and the essential requirements which permit to garantee to the consumer the fitness for use. The checking of the criteria conformity is a mixing of tests and undertakings. The applicant must fulfill the specific models and/or give laboratories tests reports, send them to the competent body. The applicant will have to keep up date file to demonstrate the continue conformity. A checking and an inspection visit will be made to ensure the undertaking validity.
Products/Ranges of products concerned
The European Ecolabel concerns in one hand the yarn or fabric used for Interior textiles and textiles for clothing and in other hand the final product which must be composed of 90 % by weight of textile fibres. The european ecolabel criteria apply to the following product types :
Textile clothing : clothing consisting of at least 90 % by weight of textile fibres.
Interior textiles : textile products for indoor use, consisting of at least 90 % by weight of textile fibres, and excluding floor-coverings.
Yarn and fabric for use in textile clothing or interior textiles
In case of fabric or final product we define two families which are depending from the number of fibres. So, a product containing 95 % at least of one fibre will correspond to a family, a product with mixed fibres will correspond to the other family. For the mixed fibres, a fibre with at least 5 % will have to be conformed to criteria.

• Continue on another page, if necessary

CONSTITUTION OF AN APPLICATION FILE To send to AFNOR

Remind of definitions
Award of the European Ecolabel : After consultation of the European Commission in Brussels and competents bodies, right for an applicant to use the european ecolabel for its product/range of products, in conformity to the Commission Community Regulation n°880/92 and the assessment procedures and its appendix.
Extension : Award of the european ecolabel for a second admission and the following for a new product in a family or a range or a modified product. Prolongation of the right to use : new trade-mark for a product
Inspection : Visit of the manufacturing unit related to the product CHECKING and the estimation of the specific means done to be in conformity to requirements.
Prolongation of the right to use : Award of the european ecolabel for a new trade-mark without modification of the certified characteristics.
Applicant : The person which asks for the awarding of the european ecolabel.
AFNOR will check the product conformity to ensure that the file given is complete to prove the product conformity to :
- Regulation CEE n°880/92 concerning a community system of awarding an ecological label,
- Commission Decision C (1999) 339 establishing the ecological criteria for the award of the european ecolabel to textile products,
And that the product will be conformed during all the contractual period. An application contents :

SUMMARY
The applicant will use models adapted to his application
application request form (model 1)
extension request form (model 2)
extension request form in case of
a renewal contract (model 2b)
request form for prolongation
(change of trademark/commercial name)
(model 3)
distributor's undertaking not to
modify the product (model 4)
form containing general information
on company (model 5)
product form (model 6)
applicant's undertaking on honour (model 7)
applicant's undertaking on honor (model 8)
for organic cotton

MODEL 1 - APPLICATION REQUEST FORM
(to be drawn up on applicant's headed note paper)
Association Française de Normalisation
Monsieur le Directeur Général - Tour Europe
92049 Paris la Défense Cédex - FRANCE

Purpose : Application for a european eco-label "textile products"
Dear Sir, I have the honour to ask you the grant of the european eco-label on "textile products" for the product or the products range* following : :
................................................................................. manufactured in the following production unit :
Commercial Reference(s) : ................................................................
Commercial trade-mark :
I undertake :
- to know the Regulation (CEE) n°880/92 of 23 march 1992 concerning a european eco-label award scheme,
- to know the standard contract and assessment procedures which are proposed by AFNOR and accept its terms during all the the award time of the european eco-label.
(1) : I furthermore empower the company
(2) : whom headquarter is in France at (adress) :
represented by Mr/Mrs/Miss
in his/her quality as representative on the french territory, to represent me for all questions relating to the use of the european eco-label on "textile group".
(3) : I hereby request that the costs for which I am liable be charged directly to him/her. He/she sall pay these costs on my behalf as my representative, on receipt of the bills, as agreed in the terms of the representation.
I undertake immediatly to notify AFNOR any modification on products and production process concerning product(s) designated above and of any new appointment involving the replacement of the above mentioned representative.

list product on supplementary page if necessary.
MODEL 2a - EXTENSION REQUEST FORM
(to be drawn up on applicant's headed note paper)
Association Française de NormalisationMonsieur le Directeur GénéralTour Europe92049 Paris la Défense Cédex FRANCE

Purpose : request for extension of the european eco-label on "textile products"
Dear Sir,
In my quality of holder for the right to affix the European eco-label n° delivered the   I have the honour to ask you the grant of the european eco-label on "textile products" for the product(s) of my fabrication based on the product(s) already identified in the following manner in my original application :
-  Designation of product(s) :
- European eco-label for product(s) issued on and bearing the number(s) :
- Commercial trademark :
- Commercial reference(s) :
- Production unit :
- and for the following reasons :
- Description of modifications (list product on supplementary page if necessary) :
- New designation (if applicable) :
- this new product replaces the product(s) originally granted authorisation :

I declare that the product(s) that are the subject of this application is (are), regarding their other characteristics, in complete conformity with the product(s) already admitted to the european eco-label.
Yours faithfully.
Date :                                                                                  Quality and signature of manufacturer

MODEL 2b – EXTENSION* REQUEST FORM
(to be drawn up on applicant’s headed note paper)
Association Française de NormalisationMonsieur le Directeur GénéralTour Europe92049 Paris la Défense Cédex FRANCE

Purpose : request for extension of the european eco-label on "textile products"
Dear Sir,
In my quality of holder for the right to affix the European eco-label n° delivered the   I have the honour to ask you the grant of the european eco-label on "textile products" following the decision n° …………..for the product(s) of my fabrication based on the product(s) already identified in the following manner in my original application :
- Designation of product(s) :
- European eco-label for product(s) issued on and bearing the number(s) :
- Commercial trademark :
- Commercial reference(s) :
- Production unit :
and for the following reasons :
- Description of modifications (list of new criteria) :
- New designation (if applicable) :
- this new product replaces the product(s) originally granted authorisation :

I declare that the product(s) that are the subject of this application is (are), regarding their other characteristics, in complete conformity with the product(s) already admitted to the european eco-label.
Yours faithfully.
Date :                                                                                  Quality and signature of manufacturer

* extension means in this case " continue to keep the european ecolabel for its products but in conformity with the new decision "

MODEL 3 - REQUEST FORM FOR PROLONGATION (CHANGE OF TRADEMARK/COMMERCIAL NAME)
(to be drawn up on applicant's headed note paper and to be shown to distributor)
Association Française de Normalisation Monsieur le Directeur Général Tour Europe 92049 Paris la Défense Cédex FRANCE

Purpose : request for prolongation of right to use
Dear Sir,
I have the honour to ask you a prolongation of authorisation to affix the european eco-label on the product(s)/range(s) of product that differ from that (those) admitted to the label only in respect of the reference(s) and trademark affixed to them and of alterations having no effect on their operating characteristics. This request relates to :
- the identification of the product(s) awarded
- european eco-label for product(s) issued on :
and bearing the number(s) :
- company distributing the product(s) :
name :
adress :
under the brand name :
- commercial denomination * of the product(s) requested by the distributor :
- alterations requested :
Please find enclosed a copy of the declaration form of Company undertaking to distribute under the commercial denomination only products with which I supply him.
I undertake to inform AFNOR immediately of any changes made to the distribution of these products and in particular of any suspension of supply to the above mentioned Company. Commercial stamp of manufacturer.
Date Signature
* "Commercial denomination" denotes any distinctive sign serving to identify precisely both the distributor and the product covered by the eco-label.

MODEL 4 - DISTRIBUTOR'S UNDERTAKING NOT TO MODIFY THE PRODUCT
(to be drawn up on applicant's headed note paper, only in the cases where the applicant product is marketed under the distributor trade-mark)

I the undersigned
acting in the capacity of (1).....................................................................................................
whose head office is situated in Siret n°
Identification of the product(s) applicant :
Manufactured by on recognize that substitution of my trademark for this one the applicant on products mentionned above drives me to take in charge the responsabilities relating to. In particular, I undertake to commercialize the product for which is established this application without bring some modifications.
Commercial stamp of distributor
Date                                                                                Signature
(1) person bearing the legal responsability

Elements of the application file
MODEL 5 - FORM CONTAINING GENERAL INFORMATION ON COMPANY

PRODUCTION UNIT
- Corporate name :
- Firm's shape, registered capital :
- Adress :
- Country :
- Telephone : ..................................... - Telex : .......................... - Fax : .......................
- SIRET n°(1) : ...................................................................... - APE code (1) : .............
- Name and quality of legal representative (2) :
- Name and quality of correspondent (if different) :

MANUFACTURER (if different from production unit)
- Corporate name :
- Firm's shape, registered capital :
- Head office adress :
- Country :
-Telephone : ..................................... - Telex : ................................. - Fax :
- SIRET n° (1) : ...................................................................... - APE Code (1) :
- Name and quality of legal representative (2) :
- Name and quality of correspondant (if different) :

REPRESENTATIVE (if required)
- Corporate name :
- Firm's shape, registered capital :
- Head office adress :
- Country :
-Telephone : ..................................... - Telex : ................................. - Fax :
- SIRET n° (1) : ...................................................................... - APE Code (1) :
- Name and quality of legal representative (2) :
- Name and quality of correspondant (if different) :
(1) for France only
(2) The legal representative is the person legally responsible for the firm

MODEL 6 - PRODUCT FORM
- Type:
- Family:
- Information of ranges:
- Production unit :
- Main commercial denomination :
            - Mark : ...............................................................................................
            - Reference : ..........................................................................................
- Other commercial denomination(s) :
- Is this product/range of product already certified for an eco-label ?

Which one ?
- Previsionnal turn-over for the current year :

Elements of the application file
MODEL 7 - APPLICANT'S UNDERTAKING ON HONOR
(to be drawn up on applicant's headed note paper)

I the undersigned, ............................................... (1), undertake formally to respect and make respect permanently regulations and dispositions concerning environment preservation to which the production site "name of the company and adress of the plant" is submitted, and to put under the inspector/auditor's disposal reports of last inspections. I also undertake :
· the fibres used contributed separatly to more 5% of the total weight of the textile fibres in the product,
· 85% by weight of all fibres in the product must be conformed to the corresponding specific criteria fibres,
· the emissions to air of acrylonitrile expressed as an annual average is less than 1g/kg of fibre produced (for acrylic),
· the emissions to air of aromatic diisocyanates during polymerisation and spinning, expressed as an annual average, are less than 5 mg/kg of fibre produced (for elastane),
· COD is less than 60 g/kg for greasy wool for scouring effluent discharges to sewer (for greasy wool and other keratin fibres),
· COD is less than 5 g COD/kg for greasy wool for scouring effluent treated on site and discharges to surface waters (for greasy wool and other keratin fibres),
· the emission of sulphur compounds to air from the processing during fibre production, expressed as an annuel average, is less than 160g/kg filament fibre produced and 30 g/kg staple fibre produced (for viscose fibres),
· the emissions to water of zinc from the production site, expressed as an annuel average, is less than 1 g/kg (for viscose fibres),
· the copper content of the effluent water leaving the site, expressed as an annuel average, is less than 0,1 ppm (cupro fibres),
· the emissions to air of N₂O during monomer production, expressed as an annual average, are less than 1g/kg fibre produced (for the polyamide),
· the emissions of VOCs during polymerisation of polyester, expressed as an annual average, is less than 1,2 g/kg of produced polyester resin (polyester fibres),
· no use of lead based pigments (for the polypropylène),
· no use of more than 1 ppm of aromatic compounds in mineral oils
· no use of TCP and PCP (and their salts and esters)
· no use of heavy metal salts (except of iron) of formaldéhyde for stripping or depigmentation, compounds or cerium in the weighting of yarns or fabrics,
· no use of Alkylphenolethoxylates (APEO), bis(hydrogenated tallow alkyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride (DTDMAC), distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DSDMAC), di(hardened tallow) dimethyl ammonium chloride (DHTDMAC) and ethylene diamine tetra acetate (EDTA),
· no use of chlorine bleaching agents
· the levels of ionic impurities for dyes and pigments used respect are conformed to the limits of the Commission Decision,
· use of chrome mordant dyeing for wools and other keratin fibres is conformed to the limits of the Commission Decision,
· use of metal complex dyes based on copper, chromium or nickel is conformed to the limits of the Commission Decision,
· no use of azo dyes that may cleave one of the aromatic amines mentionned in the Commission Decision,
· no use of carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction dyes mentionned in the Commission Decision,
· no use of potentially sensitising dyes and in the contrary case, I must be conformed to the Decision requirement,
· no use of halogenated carriers,
· no use of more than 5 % VOC for printing pastes,
· no use of plastisol-based printing
· no use of flame retardant substances or preparations containing substances that are assigned or may be assigned any of the risk phrases R, as defined by the directive CE/67/548 modified at least by the Directive CE 98/73
· use of halogenated shrink-resist substances or preparations only for wool slivers.
I also undertake that all the data furnished by my suppliers, which confirm these requirements, are available in my office.
        Done at .................., on .........................
        Quality, signature and stamp of the applicant.
1. person bearing the legal responsability

Elements of the application file
MODEL 8 - APPLICANT'S UNDERTAKING ON HONOR
(to be drawn up on applicant's headed note paper only in the case where organic cotton is used)

I the undersigned, ............................................... (1), undertake formally that I have all the necessary data in the file to ensure that the cotton furnished by M. (name of the cotton supplier), having ….… % in the fabrication of the european ecolabel candidate product, is produced in conformity with production and inspection requirements noticed in the Council Regulation n°CE 2092/91. I join all the data furnished by M. (name of the cotton supplier). If more than 95 % cotton is organic, I wish to indicate the mention "organic cotton", near the european ecolabel logo.

Done at .........................., the .....................
Quality, signature and stamp of the applicant

COMMUN ECOLOGICAL CRITERIA FOR ALL FIBRES
In this paragraph it is indicated only criteria for which it is necessary to realize tests. Tests required for all fibres except for the criterion "bleaching agents products" which do not concern man made cellulose fibres.

Criteria for which it is necessary to have undertaking on honour, the applicant shall empty the model 7 of this annex (page 33).

ECOLOGICAL CRITERIA APPLICABLE FOR EACH FIBRE - FOR ACRYLIC

FOR COTTON

*When there is more than 50% of organic cotton, the producer must send to the competent body a conformity certification,
delivered by an independant organisation, in conformity with the Council regulation EEC N°2092/91
When the cotton is non organic, the producer shall be in conformity with the following criteria :

FOR ELASTANE

FOR FLAX AND OTHER BAST FIBRES (INCLUDING HEMP, JUTE, AND RAMIE)°

MAN-MADE CELLULOSE FIBRES
(including viscose, lyocell, acétate, cupro and triacétate)

FOR POLYAMIDE

FOR POLYESTER

FOR POLYPROPYLENE

ANNEX 4 - MONITORING CONDUCTED BY THE COMPETENT BODY MONITORING CONDUCTED BY THE THIRD PARTY
This annex defines types of monitoring conducted by third party. It gives procedures for monitoring conducted by third party, as well during the application step, as during the contractual period between the holder of European eco-label and the Competent body. The applicant, when applying for an European Ecolabel, should provide all relevant documents for which he is responsible. These documents concern in particular undertaking on honour and tests reports. To finalize the application, there is an audit on the industrial site. Three types of verifications can be made by the Competent body when an application is submitted :
- verification of application file (see annex 3)
- audit/inspection of production site (annex 4)
- tests on the product itself (annex4)
Then a compliance monitoring is carried on as soon as a label is awarded (annex 4)

1. TYPES OF MONITORING CONDUCTED BY THE THIRD PARTY
1.1 Inspection / audit visits
Visits, in the European eco-label award scheme of textiles products can include the two faces of inspection and audit. Audits concern the dispositions on producer's quality system, and inspections concern the dispositions of producing the product, A reduction is possible on the audit phase, particularly if there is a quality system based on ISO 9000 certified by an accreditated organism ; so if the applicant presents an environmental management system, as EMAS or ISO 14001, the competent body will take into account this implementaion in the treatment of the applicant’s file. Visit are conducted by an inspector/auditor (chosen on a list established by the Competent Body) designated by the Competent Body and concern the checking of quality requirement given in this annex and in general assessment procedures for attribution of the European eco-label. They aim at :
- check before awarding existence and efficience of the quality system which will permit to guarantee to the consumer products always conform, as well as the control of products the producer established. These are attribution visits. These visits allow to check the products conformity to requirements of assessment procedures.
- check after award of the eco-label that these provisions are still available. These are periodic inspection visits, whom usual frequency is defined in § 2.1.1 of the annex. This frequency may be increased or decreased following the procedures given in § 2.1.2 and 2.1.3 of the annex.
The requirements for quality insurance will concern in particular :
- the management responsability in particular for the redaction of applications and personnel training,
- the quality system in which we may find the assessment procedures applicable to European ecolabel, the production synoptic, the list of commercial references corresponding to products
- the modes of formulation creation’s management (list of products, date of production..)
- the management of documentation
- the purchasing data (procedures for changing procedures, list of agreed suppliers, list of agreed raw material…). In the case where the applicant sub-treats a part of the production, the inspector/auditor may proceed to a visit at the sub-treator(s) on the same requirements basis. All the means (places, installations, equipments) which allow the inspector/auditor to achieve his mission must be placed on his disposal, as well as competent person to manage them. A visit report is mailed to the producer after each visit.
1.2 Tests
1.2.1 Tests are concerning :
-  Acrylic fibres (criterion 1), cotton (criterion 2), elastane (criterion 3), flax and other bast fibres (criterion 4), greasy wool and other keratin fibres (5a, 5b, 5c, 5d), man-made cellulose fibres (criterion 6a), polyester (criterion 8a)
- chemical substances used during processes (criteria 10a, 11, 14b, 19, 22)
-For criteria 14b, 15, 18, 19, 22 and 25, it will be necessary to have a test report only if the substances are used
- è the fitness for use of the different products (critères 29, 30, 31, 32, 33 et 34). These criteria will be realized in relation of the type of the product.
Every test will be required by AFNOR once on application. The applicant must send his sampling to the laboratories authorized in the frame of European ecolabel indicated in annex 5. Once the products awarded, tests can be realized by AFNOR for checking.
2. Undertakings on honour are concerning :
Non organic cotton (criterion n°2) : this requirement does not apply if the applicant present a documentary that establishes the identity of the farmers producing at least 75% of the cotton used in the final product, together with a declaration from these farmers that the substances listed in the criteria have not applied to the fields or cotton plants producing the cotton in question or to the cotton itself.
Flax (criterion n°4) : the flax supplier must engage himself on the non use of water retting
Wool (criteria 5a,5b,5c). this requirement does not apply if the applicant present a documentary that establishes the identity of the farmers producing at least 75% of the wool or keratin fibres, together with a declaration from these farmers that the substances listed in the criteria have not applied to the fields or animals concerned. If detregents, fabric softeners and complexing agents are used, the applicant must supply an undertaking of his supplier indicating that these products do not contain substances indicated in the criteria 14 a. For crieria 6b, 6c, 6d, 7, 8b, 9, 10b, 12, 13,16,17, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 27 et 28, the applicant undertakes on honour to respect these criteria (see model 7 of annex 3).
2 MODES OF MONITORING CONDUCTED BY THE THIRD PARTY
2.1 Audits visits
2.1.1 regular monitoring
Regular frequency of inspection/audits can be one visit per year
2.1.2 Reduced monitoring
Regular monitoring may be reduced in the following cases :
- an applicant presents a certificat of quality insurance ISO 9001 or ISO 9002 recognized by AFNOR for the european ecolabel textiles products
- an applicant has a system of quality insurance documented, presents regurlaly conformed results and has not had sanctions from more two years.
The reduced surveillance consists on :
-either auditing the whole referentiel once each 2 year,
-either auditing only referentiel points directly in relation to the product, at the regular frequency, that is to say once a year.
2.1.3 Enforced monitoring
In case of breach to the assessment procedures, a procedure of enforced monitoring may be decided by the Competent Body for a given duration.
2.2 Tests
2.2.1 Modes of sampling
During monitoring visits, products may be sampled by an expert auditor designated by the Competent Body, at the end of the production chain or from stock : one product by family is sampled. When sampling in stores, one product by family can be sampled. During the visit and the control on products, the expert auditor will check in particular the different undertaking on honour, the list of chemical substances, the list of suplliers with their undertakings on honour and tests made by the producer laboratory. Products sampled by the expert auditor are sent by the producer to one of the independant laboratory designated in annexe 5.
2.2.2 Nature of the tests
When first or following attribution, the independant laboratory, selectionned by the producer, performs the required tests on sampled products. When first or following attribution, the complete set of tests must be realized. The independant laboratory establishes a test report for the producer. This report is then sent to the Competent Body. For products under supervision, tests are decided by the Competent Body. They follow the sampling in store, in the frame of the surveillance of awarded products. The control may concern content of pesticides, biodegradability of different substances, fitness for use and so on…

ANNEX 5 Revision n° 1 Date of publication 5th March, 1999
LIST OF AUTHORIZED LABORATORIES - THE FOLLOWING LABORATORIES ARE AUTHORIZED TO PERFORM TESTS FOR COMMUNITY ECO-LABEL ON TEXTILES PRODUCTS
FRANCE
INERIS Monsieur JULLIEN - Parc Technologique Alata - BP 2 - 60550 VERNEUIL EN HALATTE - (03.44.55.66.18)
ITF Délégation de Lyon
Monsieur POLLET - Avenue Guy de Collongue - BP 60 - 69132 ECULLY cedex (04.72.86.16.00)
Délégation de Lille
Monsieur LEWANDOWSKI - 2, rue de la recherche - BP 637 - 59656 VILLENEUVE D'ASCQ CEDEX - (03.20.47.23.60)
Délégation de Mazamet
Monsieur MERIC - Boulevard du Thoré - 81200 AUSSILLON MAZAMET ( 05.63.97.56.90)
Délégation de Mulhouse
Monsieur FUES - 185, rue de l'Illberg - 68093 MULHOUSE - ( 03.89.42.74.08)
Délégation de Troyes
Madame DASCOT - 270, rue du Faubourg Croncels - 10042 TROYES ( 03.25.82.92.41)

BELGIQUE
CENTEXBEL
Monsieur VAN ACKER - Technologiepark 7 - 9052 ZWIJNAARDE ( 00.32.9.220.41.51)

ANNEX 6
COSTS AND FEES
By applying the Commission Decision of March 1992 establishing indicative guidelines for the fixing of costs and fees in connection with the European Eco-label (EEC N° 93/326 published in OJEC on 5st of march 1999), the present annex gives for 1999 amounts and conditions for costs related to management, in France, of European Eco-label. These costs are given tax free. They do not include possible travelling costs, which are borne by the applicant. The total amount of registration and admittance costs is due, whatever is the processing results.
1. ADMITTANCE TO RIGHT TO AFFIX A EUROPEAN ECO-LABEL
1.1 Files Processing Costs
These costs are aimed to cover administrative costs of opening files, notification to the Commission and of management of European Eco-label application files engaged by AFNOR. These costs are of 500 Euros for each european eco-label application. They are invoiced by AFNOR since the application has been received. As we said in annex 3 we consider four types as yarn, fabric, interior textiles and textiles for clothing. The applicant will pay 500 Euros for each type. In the types as fabric, interior textiles and textiles for clothing there are two families as " product made of one fibre (minimum 95%) ", and " product made of mixed fibres (minimum 5% for each fibre) ". For each family the applicant will pay 152,50 Euros
1.2 Tests Costs
Annex 5 gives a list of authorised laboratories to perform these tests in the European Union. Tests costs are communicated by the laboratory to the applicant. These tests costs are dependent on the nature of the tests and on the laboratory which performs them. They are invoiced by the laboratory to the applicant.
1.3 Production site visit costs
The amount corresponding to production site visit for assessment of quality system, drawing of the report and possible samplings on site is 1027 ,50 Euros per day, excluded travelling costs calculated on the same basis and stay costs. These costs are invoiced by AFNOR to the holder.
2. MONITORING
Costs related to tests and visits concerning the periodic monitoring are invoiced to the holder. Products monitored are submitted to a control plan established in the beginning of the year. The holder is informed of the type of products sampled in stores in the frame of this monitoring. Costs related to supplementary controls or verification tests which have been caused by insufficiencies or anomalies detected through monitoring are invoiced to the holder and based on the actual costs.
3. ANNUAL FEES FOR THE RIGHT TO AFFIX A EUROPEAN ECO-LABEL
3.1 Scope
These fees cover costs bounded to AFNOR tasks, as provided for in the regulation, and particularly :
· participation to the European Eco-label protection,
· appeals, recourses and protection of holders interests,
· participation to international works and defence of national positions,
· participation to Community works (relationships with other competent bodies and the Commission),
· promotion and development of the scheme,
· other.
3.2 Amount
The fees are established to 0,15 % (HT) of annual volume of sales within the Community of the product to which the eco-label is awarded. Figures for the annual volume of product sales should be based on ex-factory prices; payment of fees to competent bodies shall not be delayed until the annuel volume of product sales has been determined by end-year results, but can be made, either in part or in full, in advance of such results, subject to later validation. The guidelines minimum figure shall be 500 Euros per awarded product. It is avoiced by AFNOR.
3.3 Recovering
Annual fee relates to a period of 12 months beginning with the date of the award of the eco-label to the applicant. For the first year, fees are calculated in proportion to time until the end of the current year.
4. SUPPLEMENTARY TESTS AND/OR VISIT COSTS
These costs are avoiced depending on possible actions decided by AFNOR or asked by the Commission and/or competent bodies.